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Ibiza Titanium Proyect
The climbing in Ibiza is at a very important moment in its development and growth. New climbing areas have been born, new equipment, new routes, more local climbers and many foreign climbers choose Ibiza as a climbing destination. The island has currently 600 published routes and almost the same amount unpublished.
Most of the materials used so far as safety anchors are stainless steel bolts and chemicals A2 AISI304 and A4 marine AISI316, as these materials were believed to withstand marine corrosion. But it was a serious mistake to believe so!! Now as time has passed, we see that the stainless steel fails and that the bolts break without warning at very low loads! according to these events this is the reason to consider the routes of A2 as very dangerous and the ones of A4 routes under observation and suspicion of dangerous.
Currently we have a red alert since several bolts broke in this last year and some in the previous years. Furthermore, the problem of using these stainless steel materials that have low durability is that we need to make a high impact on the rock and deteriorate it since it´s necessary to change the routes every 10-15 years. We follow the philosophy of impacting and intervening the rock as little as possible, so we see Titanium as the best, most reliable and safe solution for our climbing routes in Ibiza where we have so much marine corrosion and since titanium is guaranteed a durability arround 100 years !!
As a counterpart we have to assume costs of between 150 -180 euros of cost of material for each route that is reequipped with Titanium although fortunately the workmanship is made voluntarily (non-profit) by local climbers that are involved in the great work of renewing many routes of their own authorship or of other members of the climbing community (always with previous authorization of the climber that opened the route).
The first titanium anchors have been placed this year and the material has been contributed by the Balearic Federation of Climbing and Muntanyisme, which contributed with a total of 140 U and 19 meeting rings.
There are many routes to renew so we turn for help to the global climbing community to try to continue this great task.
– Pipeta (Alejandro Pellegrino)